River Farm Pinot Noir 2023

So many wines from the Marlborough region are simply brands with no solid connection to people or a vineyard. That is why I was so impressed when I tasted the wines from River Farm, an estate owned by the Johnson family who began making wine in 1992. As the name implies the property borders the Awatare River, one of the sub-zones of Marlborough. The vineyard lies in the alluvial plain of the river which provides the perfect balance of nutrients and moisture. They also farm using organic practices because of the potential for runoff into the river. This week we bring you two wines which show why connecting with the land pays off in the bottle.

With Burgundy prices now officially insane those who desire leaner expression of Pinot Noir are searching the globe for alternatives. Places like Walker Bay in South Africa, Casablanca in Chile and Marlborough in New Zealand offer handsome alternatives at relatively reasonable prices. The River Farm example weighs in at less than 14% ABV and offers a charming combination of crushed summer berries, cooked cranberries and damson plum preserves. When you take a sip this wine unfolds slowing, suggesting all the fruits you smell, but in a graceful restrained way. Try with pan seared salmon or pork tenderloin roulades with a cherry/thyme pan sauce.