Ontanon Rioja Natura 2021

It’s hard to believe, given their vast vineyard holdings, but the Pérez Cuevas family does not produce any low-end, grocery store-level wines. Their focus is solely on Reserva tier and single-village wines—the newest and most exciting category of Rioja. When the marketing team approached the family about creating an “everyday” wine, they were very cautious. Only after several years of experimentation did they release this wine, previously known as Ecological, but due to restrictions between the US and Spain on the definition of organic, they now use the name Natura. Originally, the wine was sold exclusively to José Andrés’ restaurants, including Jaleo, but they now produce enough for the rest of us.

Decant this wine for a few minutes before serving and give it a chill to cellar temperature. Doing so releases an exquisite aroma of blueberries, black currants, dried black figs, espresso beans, and sandalwood. On the palate, this wine is surprisingly lush, with the oak rounding the edges and providing an extra push into the finish. Serve with dry-rubbed and smoked pork ribs, Spanish tortilla or fajitas.