J Boulon Brouilly 2025

What can you do with less than an acre of vines? In the hands of Domaine J. Boulon, something rather special.

The family's Brouilly comes from a tiny parcel of Gamay planted in 1970. With annual production historically around 120 cases, there simply isn't much of this wine to go around. But what makes it interesting isn't just its scarcity. It's the remarkable concentration and character that these mature vines can bring to a grape often associated with lighter, easygoing reds.

Brouilly is one of the ten crus of Beaujolais, and while the appellation is generally known for its generous fruit and approachable style, Boulon's version has a decidedly more serious personality.

The aromas are an intriguing combination of freshly muddled black raspberries, black tea and blood orange. On the palate, the wine shows surprising depth and concentration, with beautifully balanced tannins that provide structure without overwhelming the fruit. There is richness here, but also the freshness that makes Gamay so appealing.

Serve it slightly cool with duck breast, herb-roasted pork tenderloin or roast chicken with mushrooms. This is a Brouilly worth taking a little time with, particularly as it opens in the glass.

For anyone who still thinks Beaujolais is only about simple, youthful reds, this is a convincing reason to reconsider.