Cantina del Morellino Cala Civetta Bianco di Pitigliano 2024

There are over 300 DOCs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) in Italy, many of which are tiny and rarely seen in the US. This is one example, from the small village of Pitigliano on the southern coast of Tuscany, near the border with Lazio. Despite the relative proximity to Rome—which dominates the region of Lazio—this is rugged, isolated country, so there are few wineries in the area. This one comes from our friends at the nearby Cantina del Morellino, a collective of 170 families who all farm using sustainable practices and an eye toward quality.

By law, Bianco di Pitigliano must be a majority of Trebbiano, a grape that can produce interesting wines in the right place. In Pitigliano, they have ancient volcanic soils that impart richness to this variety, and the elevation helps maintain freshness. This bottling is 80% Trebbiano and 20% Chardonnay, which adds further richness. It’s hard not to want to gulp this wine, with refreshing notes of fresh Fuji apple and pineapple, kissed with candied lemon peel and fennel pollen. Where this wine excels is on the palate, where it is surprisingly rich and savory, with a fine, saline finish. Serve it with linguine with white clam sauce, spinach manicotti, or stir-fried shrimp.