Bodegas Breca Garnacha Brega 2020

Region: Catalunya, Spain

Grape Variety: Grenache

Former European Reserve Club

This wine comes from the Calatyud area of Spain, best known as an area for cheap, simple wines sold primarily in Spain as they are not traditionally export quality. However, Bodegas Breca is the baby of Jorge Ordonez, arguably the most important importer of Spanish wines in the 1990s and 2000s. Jorge came on to the scene at a time when very little Spanish wine was being sold in the US outside of a couple large Rioja brands, and first shined the spotlight on new, innovative growers. Unlike many importers who build relationships with growers then market the wines in the US, Jorge actually took ownership stakes in many brands and provided advice in the vineyard, cellar and packaging. It is no exaggeration to say that Jorge almost single handedly created the Spanish wine category in the US three decades ago.

Today, Jorge is taking a more active role in the production of a few pet projects in Spain, including this estate which he established in 2010. Despite not being located in a denominated region, Jorge saw the significance of this vineyard and the potential for the wines. Located near the village of Munébrega, high on the great plateau of Aragon, this area is home to what is believed to be the original clone of Garnacha. It is from this point of origin that the grape was carried by the powerful armies of the Kingdom of Aragon across southern Europe in the 14th century. In the ensuing 7 centuries this variety has evolved to become a grape well suited to hot, dry conditions, with examples in Sardinia and along the Mediterranean rim into France. Unlike almost all the areas mentioned above which lie close to the sea, this particular example is grown at high elevation, where it has adapted to the unique and challenging conditions. With vineyards at nearly 2500 feet above sea level the climate is cooler and the growing season is shorter. To adapt this landrace clone buds late and ripens quickly, allowing for wines that are both ripe and show great freshness. For those of you who find Garnacha/Grenache based wines too “clunky," like modern Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this one may be a revelation.

One of the things that has typically been a hallmark of Ordonez selections is prolific use of new oak. When the vendor suggested I taste this wine I had concerns, but in the end they were unnecessary. Decant it for at least a half hour, longer is fine, and you are greeted with a dense nose of caramel, Luxardo cherries, blackberry preserves, molasses, vanilla wafers and dried thyme. On the palate this wine is very concentrated, with powerful tannins that are reinforced by the oak aging, with a gritty, earthy finish. The surprise is how fresh and bright it ends, giving me the confidence to believe this wine will improve for up to a decade, so drink 2023-2028.